Monster Swell Hits Nosara

Words by Ru Hill

Today we saw some of the biggest, cleanest waves, I’ve ever seen here in Nosara.

It’s so cool living in Costa Rica because you get to see these big low pressure systems build in the north or south Pacific. The north swells hit Hawaii first and the south swells hit Tahiti, a few days later we get a smaller cleaner incarnation of the same swell rolling in here at Playa Guiones.

south pacific low pressure system

Last week we got pretty excited when we saw this bad boy thundering through the south pacific. It’s pretty amazing to see that this low pressure system (the big purple blob at the bottom) is almost as big as Australia.

south pacific low pressure system

The monstrous swell caused by the high winds blowing over hundreds of miles of ocean, slammed into the shallow reef at Teahupoo (in Tahiti), which is regarded as one of the heaviest surf spots in the world (more about what went down at Teahupoo last week). The usual suspects were out there getting towed into some insane waves, and sure enough a few days later Playa Guiones lit up. The huge waves were groomed to perfection by the off shore trade winds blowing up the face. Al ended up swimming in with his tail between his legs when his leash snapped and Ru reckoned his twenty minute paddle out through the merciless lines of white water was one of the hardest paddles of his life but everyone got some sick waves and it has been pretty sweet!

big waves at playa guiones in nosara

(Photo courtesy of Surfing Nosara.)

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