If Surfing Were a Village of 100 People

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Surf culture.

brazilian surfer miguel pupo boosting a big frontside air and casting a shadow on the wave during the asp france contest in 2014

Take a hard look and you’ll find that the outward image of surfing isn’t that of the fair, balanced and accepting culture that many people would like it to be. If that world of surfing were condensed into a village of 100 people how would it compare to a similar village populated by the rest of… Read more »

Never Outnumbered, Always Outgunned

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Surf culture, Surfboards.


Let’s face it, most of us are more likely to find ourselves stood in the car park as part of a crowd of surfers mumbling excuses about being undergunned on a truly massive day, than sat out on our own with sufficient foam at our disposal catching unforgettable waves. We’ll rarely be outnumbered, and occasionally… Read more »

Hallowed Ground

Posted by & filed under Opinions.

surfers checking the waves from a car park

As a tribe, we gather in unusual locations. Our meeting places, where stories are shared and surf culture is perpetuated are not, I would argue, in the ocean – that is where we surf. In the water our conversations are often stilted and broken, interrupted by the riding of waves or made difficult by wind… Read more »

Don’t Look Back

Posted by & filed under Opinions.

a surfer walks back up the beach whilst a wave breaks behind him

Every single time you paddle out for a surf you will inevitably, at some point, have to make the decision to take a wave all the way in to the beach and get out. Saying that it’s a difficult decision turns it into a real First World problem, and if the waves are awful anyway… Read more »