Hallowed Ground

Posted by & filed under Opinions.

surfers checking the waves from a car park

As a tribe, we gather in unusual locations. Our meeting places, where stories are shared and surf culture is perpetuated are not, I would argue, in the ocean – that is where we surf. In the water our conversations are often stilted and broken, interrupted by the riding of waves or made difficult by wind… Read more »

Don’t Look Back

Posted by & filed under Opinions.

a surfer walks back up the beach whilst a wave breaks behind him

Every single time you paddle out for a surf you will inevitably, at some point, have to make the decision to take a wave all the way in to the beach and get out. Saying that it’s a difficult decision turns it into a real First World problem, and if the waves are awful anyway… Read more »

International Surfing Day

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Surf culture.


Tomorrow, June 20th, is “International Surfing Day”. Falling on or close to the summer solstice here in the Northern Hemisphere, International Surfing Day is a bit of a Hallmark Day dreamt up by the folks at Surfing Magazine and the Surfrider Foundation back in 2004 which has grown year on year and is now celebrated… Read more »

The S-Factor

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Seasons.

Surfer bottom turning a large wave under the moonlight in winter

Image:  Surfer Mick Jardine bottom turning in the moonlight, during a mid-winter early morning surf in Northern Europe. It’s the middle of winter and I am bloody freezing. My hands are doing that claw thing where they get so cold that you can’t close your fingers together and that, along with a thick, heavy wetsuit,… Read more »

The Creative Few

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Surf culture.

Dane Reynolds air

Dane Reynolds proving that the unsurfable can be so much more. Whilst it is straight-up natural ability that separates most of us from great surfers, it is two things – style and creativity – that separate great surfers from the truly compelling few who grab our attention and don’t ever let go. “Making the simple… Read more »