Don’t Look Back

Posted by & filed under Opinions.

a surfer walks back up the beach whilst a wave breaks behind him

Every single time you paddle out for a surf you will inevitably, at some point, have to make the decision to take a wave all the way in to the beach and get out. Saying that it’s a difficult decision turns it into a real First World problem, and if the waves are awful anyway… Read more »

International Surfing Day

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Surf culture.


Tomorrow, June 20th, is “International Surfing Day”. Falling on or close to the summer solstice here in the Northern Hemisphere, International Surfing Day is a bit of a Hallmark Day dreamt up by the folks at Surfing Magazine and the Surfrider Foundation back in 2004 which has grown year on year and is now celebrated… Read more »

The S-Factor

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Seasons.

Surfer bottom turning a large wave under the moonlight in winter

Image:  Surfer Mick Jardine bottom turning in the moonlight, during a mid-winter early morning surf in Northern Europe. It’s the middle of winter and I am bloody freezing. My hands are doing that claw thing where they get so cold that you can’t close your fingers together and that, along with a thick, heavy wetsuit,… Read more »

The Creative Few

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Surf culture.

Dane Reynolds air

Dane Reynolds proving that the unsurfable can be so much more. Whilst it is straight-up natural ability that separates most of us from great surfers, it is two things – style and creativity – that separate great surfers from the truly compelling few who grab our attention and don’t ever let go. “Making the simple… Read more »

The Future of the Secret Spot

Posted by & filed under Opinions, Travel.

Secret Surf Spot

  The secret spot is dead, long live the secret spot! And so is achievable surf discovery, now that we’re on the subject. Wherever you find a rideable wave on the fringes of society you can bet your last money that it has been surfed before, either by some wandering Aussie in the 1970s or… Read more »